If you watch many DIY TV shows, you will hear the word "Character"a lot. It is what makes a house one-of-a-kind. Buyers love that, so it's an excellent selling feature. But what adds character to a place and, better yet, doesn't break the bank?
Here are some ways to add character to your house without breaking your budget.
When you have a loose screw (probably should do a different treatment for the mental sense of a ‘loose screw’… I’m just talking about the literal meaning of a loose screw today) due to the hole it’s screwed into being just a bit too big like I did one day, I realized, when I opened the door of an old cupboard I have in the breakfast room. The top of the door fell off the cupboard, barely holding on by the bottom hinge!
Oops, fix those loose cabinet and cupboard doors before it gets to that point, or it can lead to more significant problems. I’m lucky I used the door when it happened, so I could immediately catch it and relieve the tension on the bottom hinge.
So here’s how to fix it:
(according to my old carpenter friend that taught me the carpenter trick to repair furniture)
I removed the door from the cupboard and laid it on a flat surface, (it will need to apply flat overnight, so pick a spot where it can sit for a while)
(in this case, I do prefer wood glue, I believe it is more robust and works better for this project)
The next thing I did was to fill the hole with toothpicks…
One at a time, shoving the last ones in as hard as possible. A couple of thoughts about this: be sure to try to get the toothpicks all the way to the bottom of the hole; this is important because one of the issues with loose screws can be the gap is too deep. And secondly, try to completely fill the gap; some of the glue will ooze back out the hole, but that’s OK. For effect, I showed you all the toothpicks long at one time,
but in reality, it’s much easier if you snip off each one once as it’s inserted in the hole. Getting the top of the toothpick flush with the cupboard door is vital so that your hinge will lie flat on the door when placed back on it.
Once the holes were filled with snipped toothpicks and glue, I let them dry overnight. It’s hard to define separate toothpicks in this photo, but each screw hole did take several toothpicks to completely fill it.
Basically, what you’re creating is a wood-based wood filler that will have the strength to give the screw something to grip onto.
It’s crucial when you are ready to put the hinge back on the door,
that you pre-drill the holes for the screws.
This always helps prevent the screw from slipping around and not going into the wood in the exact spot we’re aiming for and helps prevent the wood from splitting. Just be sure you don’t go too deep or use too large of a drill bit (but if you do, now you know how to fix it!)
The old screws holding the hinge were in terrible shape, and I couldn’t reuse them, but these new screws work great and hold the door on really well.
Measure the wall - measure the width and length in inches.
Choose your material- determine the width of your grid lines. For example, do you want to use 1x4, 1x3 1x2 boards? (That is the width of the boards. I like 1x3).
3. Calculate your squares- The key to a perfect grid wall is to make your grids as close to courts as possible. Since your wall width is likely to be a different height than your ceiling, this can be tricky. We like to have our squares ideally be about 16-24″ on a side. Anything smaller can end up looking too busy. On the other hand, if the courts get too big, they look, well…too big.
If your wall width or height is an even number, like 8 ft, divide by 2 ft to determine how many squares you will have in either direction. If your wall width or height is an odd number, you will have to get more creative. We came up with a handy table to take all the guesswork out of it for you:
Step 2 - Install the frame
Create a frame around your grid wall. It should look like this.
Step 3 - Install the vertical pieces.
Vertical pieces are easier to install because they create fewer cuts than horizontal pieces.
Just a little bit more math...
The distance between the edges of your vertical pieces will be different from the square spacing we provided in the table above due to the width of your wood. How do you figure out the space between your vertical wood pieces? Here is the formula:
Step 4 - Calculate your horizontal spacing
Use the same procedure you used to calculate the width of the wall. Repeat it for the height of the wall
Step 5 - Create two spacer
Cut two pieces of wood precisely the tiny size. This will help you to ensure that the spaces are exact.
I recently came across Smart Tiles, which was an excellent product. It's a peel-and-stick, very thin and lightweight tile. You use a ruler and a utility knife to cut it. So easy to use and can contour around electrical outlets. Anyone can install it. They are great for kitchen backsplash, as well as bathroom backsplash.
The result is impressive. They come in different styles and colors and are low in cost compared to tiles. Perfect for rentersor people who are on tight budgets.
There are many different types of sofas; it boggles the mind. But we can narrow it down to 11 design styles. From these styles are many variations. Understanding these styles may help you select the best design for your home.
1. Chesterfield Sofa - This style is defined by its rolled arm. The back is the same height as the arms. It has tufting or quilting but no cushions. Dating back to the 18th century and commissioned by the Earl of Chesterfield, England. The sofa was commissioned so that it would allow men to sit on the sofa upright and not wrinkle their suits.
2. Cabriole Sofa - This style is characterized by its "S" shaped legs and exposed wood frame. It also has arms that are slightly lower than the back, and it has no back cushions. Cabriole goes back to the 18th century.
3. Camelback Sofa - It has an arched back, similar to a camel, hence the name!! This style has rolled or square arms, usually no back cushions, and the legs are exposed.
4. Lawson Sofa - Created by Thomas W. Lawson, an American businessman. The first Lawson sofa came with pillows, and it was overstuffed. Very different than the traditional sofas. There are many variations of this sofa, but you can recognize this style by its three cushions and rolled or square arms.
5. Tuxedo Sofa - Starting the modernism movement in the 1920s. It got its name from the town of Tuxedo Park in New York. The arms define this style; they are the same height as the back. Most of the Tuxedo sofa does not come with back cushions. Legs are exposed. This style differs from Chesterfield. Chesterfield has rolled arm; Tuxedo does not.
6. English Rolled Arm Sofa - Considered one of the coziest sofas. Sometimes called the Club Sofa. It dates back to the turn of the century. It has a tight back but generously sized cushions. The arms are recessed.
7. Knole Sofa - Dates back to the early 1600s. Back then, sofas did not exist. Instead, they used settee. This style has a straight high back and angled adjustable arms. Cords were used to connect back to arms. This style has decreased in popularity, but it can still be found in some homes.
8. Bridgewater Sofa - This style is defined by its softly rolled back, low set-back arms, and padded cushions. It can also be called birch-arm or English three-seater.
9. Mid-Century Modern Sofa - Started in the mid-1930s to 1965. They have a retro appearance. They come in many variations. This style has a streamlined form with square legs.
10. Sectional Sofa - Promoted by modernism, this sofa style has modular components. It has corner units and an ottoman and sometimes comes with a chaise or recliners.
11. Futon Sofa - Dates back to 17th century Japan. The back folds down to create a large bed. This is perfect in a space where it can not accommodate a bed.
There are many variations to the styles of sofas mentioned here. Knowing what form best fits your space can significantly help to select the couch you want.
And if you need help, you can always reach out to me.
Did you know there are many types of ceilings? Some you may know, and others may not be familiar to you. Either way, you have a choice. Every kind of ceiling will give your space a unique look. In addition, each ceiling offers different characteristics.
Here are just some of the ceilings to choose from:
Exposed Beam Ceiling - This style gives the space a more rustic feel.
Vaulted/Shed/Cathedral Ceiling- They are all very similar. They form the shape of the roof. Sometimes the ceiling can be slanted instead of meeting in the center of the room.
As you can see, there are many types of ceilings!! Hard to choose? Absolutely!! If you decide to do something different, then go for it. It's up to you.
